Wednesday 24 October 2012

Gum Bichromate


Gum Bichromate


Brief Overview
Gum Bichromate is a unique 19th century photographic printing process and it was also the first ever colour photographic printing process. It is possible to print any colour you desire and to print multiple layers to create a print with a large tonal range. Edward Steichen's gum print the pond, moonlight is the most expensive photographic print ever to sell at auction. It is suggested that the soft painterly characteristic of gum is the result of the Steichen success.
 How does Gum Bichromate work? It is very simple: watercolour pigment is mixed into clear gum Arabic to give it colour. Then the gum / pigment solution is mixed with a solution of sodium, potassium or ammonium dichromate, the dichromate makes the mixture light sensitive. This is then coated on a sheet of paper and left to dry in a dark place. The dry gum Bichromate paper is covered with a negative image then exposure to UV light, where the dichromate hardens the gum Arabic. The paper is placed in a still bath of tap water. After a few minute the unexposed gum washes away and the hardened exposed gum stay on the paper. After an hour in the water the paper print is hung to dry. When the print is dry the gum is permanently harden to the paper, if the prints is re washed water cannot re penetrate the hardened gum on the print.           

Ingredients
        •         Acid free paper
        •         2 Hake brushes
        •         Shot glass
        •         2 syringes
        •         Sticky tape
        •         Ruler
        •         Normal paint brush
        •         Pencil
Chemicals
        •          Gum Arabic
        •          25%Potassium Dichromate or 10%Ammonium Dichromate solution
        •          Water colour pigment

Note: Dichromate is very harmful to your health and is carcinogenic. It should be handled with care, always wear gloves when using it wet or dry. If you mix it from a powdered state always wear a dust mask. If you get it on your clothes remove them straight way and if you get it on your skin wash it off.   

Water colour pigment
It is possible to print using any water colour pigment you choose. Winsor and Newton are the best pigments for gum printing but a cheaper brand is Art spectrums, this works fine. I use the following pigments below:
Monotone (B/W)
        •          Lamp Black (PBk6)
3 Colours
        •          Magenta (PV19)
        •          Yellow (PY37)
        •          Cyan (PB29)
4 Colours
        •          Magenta (PV19)
        •          Yellow (PY37)
        •          Cyan (PB29)
        •          Lamp Black (PBk6)

Paper Gelatin Sizing (Optional)
Sizing your paper with gelatin gives you a better surface to printing on, it stops the paper from soaking up the emulsion and will produce more contrast and a much sharper print. Sizing also allows you to wash the paper multiple times without the paper breaking down. 

Warning: Formaldehyde gives off harmful vapors, so when handling it wear a gas mask and use it in a well ventilated area.


Ingredients
•        •          Acid free paper
•        •          Gelatin
•        •          Distilled Water
•        •          5% Formaldehyde

Note: Food grade gelatin will work but photo grade gelatin is better. Formaldehyde is reusable, the amount needed is just enough in a bath to cover the paper completely.

Pre mix gelatin:(3% gelatin mix) Heat up 1000ml of distilled water to no more than 40c, Mix in 30g of gelatin and allow to sit overnight or until the gelatin crystals have dissolved completely. 

Step 1: Select the paper you would like to use. Thick paper handles better than thin paper that can fold or rip when it is wet. The smoother the paper the flatter and closer the negative will sit to the light sensitive emulsion this will make the image sharper.

Step 2: Stretch the paper by placing it in a bath of hot tap water for 20-30mins, then hang out to dry.

Step 3: Reheat the gelatin mixture slowly in its container in a bath of hot water (not boiling hot water) until the gelatin turns into a liquid state ( don't let the gelatin exceed 40c or it won't set again). Place the liquid gelatin into a bath that is sitting in a bigger bath of hot water to keep the gelatin warm. Now the gelatin is ready for sizing. 

Step 4: Place the paper into the gelatin bath for 20-30mins.Then remove the paper from the bath and squeegee the excess gelatin off the paper then hang it out to dry.

Step 5: Place the dry gelatin coated paper into a bath of 5% formaldehyde for 20-30mins.

Step 6: Remove the paper from the formaldehyde and place into a running water wash bath for 30-60mins

Then hang to out to dry and when the paper is completely dry it is ready to use.
Pigment test
Before starting printing, a pigment test is needed to check the density of the pigment to gum Arabic ratio. First, select the paper you will be printing on, cut two small strips of the paper to do your test on. Down one side write in pencil 1ml through to 10ml, this will indicate the ratio of gum Arabic to pigment used in the test. Write on the top of one of the strips 'wet pigment test' and the other 'dry pigment test'. Then measure out 10mm of pigment in a shot glass, use a rule to be as accurate as possible, this is just a starting measurement, you may need more or less pigment. Take the shot glass of pigment and mix in 1ml of gum Arabic using a normal paint brush, once the pigment and the gum is combined brush a small stroke of the gum/pigment next to the 1ml on each of the dry and wet pigment test strips. After that add another 1ml of gum Arabic to your mixture, stir together and put a small stroke of gum /pigment next the 2ml marks. Repeat until you reach 10mls. Let the pigment test dry and then put the 'wet pigment' test in a bath of tap water for 1hour. After an hour remove the wet test and let it dry. The wet test indicates how much pigment will wash out during the printing process and represents the unexposed, unhardened gum arabic. The 'dry test' shows how dense the gum pigment will be when the gum is exposed and hardened. What you are looking for on the wet and dry tests is a slight visible stain on the wet test and a dense non transcendent mark on the dry test because this will be your 'blacks' in the final image. See the test below for example of what you are looking for.                    

Mix up a working stock solution of gum and pigment-
for example if your pigment test told you '1mm of pigment to 3ml of gum Arabic', mix up 5 times more solute, making it '5mm of pigment to 15 ml of gum Arabic'. The quantity of stock solution is up to you 

Printing

Step 1: Tape the paper to a work table so it cannot move during coating.

Step 2: Mark out film position on the paper using a pencil, this will let you know where to coat the solution on the paper. If you are doing multiple layers, register your negative or negatives by pinning all 4 corners of the negative to you paper, this will allow you to line up accurately the negative again for another coat or layer.

Step 3: mix 1 part dichromate solution to 3 or 4 parts stock gum/pigment in a shot glass (only make up what you need for one coat at a time). Coat paper with the Gum Dichromate solution using a hake brush, use a second brush to smooth out or remove any uneven Gum Dichromate solution. If you are doing a multilayer monotone gum use a 1 dichromate to 1 or 2 parts gum/ pigment solution

Dichromate to gum/ pigment ratio
1 to 1
1 to 2
1 to 3
1 to 4
Layer type
Multi layer Monotone
Multi layer Monotone
Single Layer
Monotone
Single Layer
Monotone
contrast
low
high
low
high
Tonal range
long
short
long
short

Step 4: Dry the Gum Dichromate solution by using a hairdryer or by placing it in a dark area until dry.

Step 5:  Tape down the negative over the dry Gum Dichromate, If you are doing a second layer re-register the negative using the pinholes. Once the negative is registered using the pins, then tape the negative down and remove the pins.

Step 6:  Expose Gum Dichromate in a UV unit under a heavy piece of glass or in a contact frame in the sun. Do a test strip to judge the exposure time.

Step 7: Then wash.

Wash

Bath 1: place the gum print face down in a bath of tap water, do not touch the image because it will rub off, ( 20mins)

Bath 2: place the gum print face down in another bath of tap water, do not touch the image because it will rub off ( 40mins)

 Dry.
Once the print is dry the image will not come off if you touch it, now it is ready for another layer if you are doing multiple layers

Multiple layers
Gum Bichromate is famous for its ability to do multiple layers, the multiple layers allows you to make 3D images, mono tone images with large tonal ranges and  3 colour and 4 colour photographic prints. Always start with the lightest shade or coloured layer first and end with the darkest. Below is a chart showing you how long each layer needs to be exposed for in a multi layered print. All the print types below should have the overall exposure time. So if you do a single monotone print you can use the overall exposure time to judge the expose for any multi layer gum print. For example: if the overall exposure time for a single layer monotype is 1200 units in a UV unit a 4 colour gum would have a layer of yellow at 300 unit, a magenta layer at 300 unit, a cyan layer at 300 units and a black layer at 300 units making to total time your print spent in the UV unit was 1200 units.   


Multiple layers
1st layer
2nd layer
3rd layer
4th layer
Overall Exposure time
Single layer Monotone
Colour
100%



100%
Multi layer Monotone
Colour highlights
50%
Colour midtones
33.33%
Colour shadows
16.66%

100%
3 Colour Gum (RGB)
Yellow
33.33%
Magenta
33.33%
Cyan
33.33%

100%
4 Colour Gum (CMYK)
Yellow
25%
Magenta
25%
Cyan
25%
Black
25%
100%
3D Gum
Red
50%
Blue
50%


100%
3D Gum with Shadow layer
Red
33.33%
Blue
33.33%
Shadow
33.33%

100%




How to make a Digital Negatives
Monotone Negatives
Using Photoshop
Select your image: open it in Photoshop
Convert to Black and White: Image / Mode/ Greyscale
Check the blacks are 100% black: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select the darkest area on your image / use curves to make the darkest area 100% black (image/ adjustment/ curves/ adjust the curves as needed/ok)
 Check the whites are 100% white: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select the lightest area on your image / use curves to make the lightest area 0% white (image/ adjustment/ curves adjust the curves as needed/ok)
Flip image horizontal: image/ image rotation/ flip canvas horizontal.(any text in the image should read backwards)  
Invert image to a negative: Image/ adjustment/ invert or hold command and I on the keyboard
Convert to 8bit file: Image/Mode/8 Bit 
Save as: Tiff for inkjet printers and PDF for laser jet printers
Print: Print on acetate
 3 Colour Gum Negatives
Using Photoshop
Select your colour image: open it in Photoshop
Check the blacks are 100% black: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select the darkest area on your image / use curves to make the darkest area 100% black (image/ adjustment/ curves/ adjust the curves as needed/ok)
 Check the whites are 100% white: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select the lightest area on your image / use curves to make the lightest area 0% white (image/ adjustment/ curves adjust the curves as needed/ok)
Flip image horizontal: image/ image rotation/ flip canvas horizontal. (any text in the image should read backwards)
Convert image to RGB colour file: image /mode /RGB colour.
Split colour channels: layer tool bar/ select the channels file / then to the right of the channel file (and paths file) is a little square click the square/ split channels
When the channel split they will make 3 separate black and white documents titled Red, Green and Blue. Rename the layers - Red is Cyan, Green is Magenta and Blue is now Yellow. The renaming of negatives corresponded to the pigment you will use for each gum layer.          
 Invert each channel to a negative: Image/ adjustment/ invert or hold command and I on the keyboard
Convert to 8bit file: Image/Mode/8 Bit 
Save each channel as: Tiff for inkjet printers and PDF for laser jet printers
Print: Print on acetate




4 Colour Gum Negatives
Using Photoshop
Select your colour image: open it in Photoshop
Check the blacks are 100% black: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select the darkest area on your image / use curves to make the darkest area 100% black (image/ adjustment/ curves/ adjust the curves as needed/ok)
 Check the whites are 100% white: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select the lightest area on your image / use curves to make the lightest area 0% white (image/ adjustment/ curves adjust the curves as needed/ok)
Flip image horizontal: image/ image rotation/ flip canvus horizontal. (any text in the image should read backwards)
Convert image to CMYK colour file: image /mode /CMYK colour.
Split colour channels: layer tool bar/ select the channels file / then to the right of the channel file (and paths file) is a little square click the square/ split channels
When the channel split they will make 4 separate black and white images titled Cyan, Magenta, Cyan and Black. The new images corresponded to the pigment you will use for each gum layer.          
 Invert each channel to a negative: Image/ adjustment/ invert or hold command and I on the keyboard
Convert to 8bit file: Image/Mode/8 Bit 
Save each channel as: Tiff for inkjet printers and PDF for laser jet printers
Print: Print on acetate 

Thursday 9 August 2012

Massive Uni Camera Project






So, look what James and I came across at Uni (!!!!)
Apparently this camera has been around the uni for 10 years and no one ever bothered to see what they could do with it. We have asked around the photography department and no one seems to even know how it got here. Its completely weird but completely amazing that we have the chance to use such a camera. Id say there are only a few of these sorts of cameras left in the world and even less in Australia.

So we have started out basically, shooting paper negatives. The exposures were just over a minute- hence some of the blur, as it is so hard to keep still for this time. The three below (james, tobias and myself) are paper negs printed as positives in the darkroom. 

The detail is amazing. We are so lucky that the lens is still in good condition.

Then over the weekend we just happened to be given some sheet film that fits the camera perfectly (got to love coincidences!) and we have started shooting with that- the cyanotype below was made from the sheet film- even more detail than the paper negs. The film is great as it only takes approx 30sec for an exposure.

 (Sorry about the bad pictures, as the prints are so big we cant scan them- so i just used my hand held camera to get a snap shot. )

Cant wait to create some more, but the questions now is, what can we do with this camera??
Its so large and heavy that it cant really be moved from this spot, so some sort of still life/portrait work. The camera is set up for glass plates so this is also a possibility!
Very exciting work. But once again, nothing to do with my honours project...